Stage 14 of the French Way: Hornillos del Camino

Home Camino de Santiago Camino Francés Stage 14 of the French Way: Hornillos del Camino – Castrojeriz

Hornillos del Camino
❯ Castrojeriz

20km

STAGE DISTANCE

‹ Stage 13

Burgos ❯ Hornillos del Camino

Stage 15 ›

Castrojeriz ❯ Frómista

Pilgrim traffic

Difficulty

Art / History

Nature

Urban route

Stage 14 · French way

Information

About this stage

This stage of the French Way of the Way of Santiago connects Hornillos del Camino with Castrojeriz, both in the province of Burgos (Castile and León, Spain). It is a fully Meseta day, very similar to the previous one, that runs through the vast cereal lands of Castile and ends in one of the villages with the most heritage of the entire French Way.

The stage has an approximate distance of 20 km, with an average duration of about 4 and a half hours of walking, according to sources consulted. The distance can vary slightly depending on the guide: Gronze indicates 19.9 km and other sources speak of 20–20.5 km. It is a stage of moderate difficulty, with little elevation gain (around 170–190 m of climb, depending on the source). The profile follows the pattern of small plateaus: sections of gentle climb, long flat stretches across plateau, and descents toward valleys.

After leaving Hornillos, the Way climbs to a first plateau, passes near the Arroyo de San Bol, and descends toward Hontanas, the only intermediate village, situated just past the midpoint of the route. From there, the route levels out following the valley until the ruins of the convent of San Antón, whose great Gothic arch crosses the road, and continues until Castrojeriz.

The landscape, open and with few shaded areas, maintains the solitary character of the Meseta. The Jacobean importance of the stage is notable: in it two historic hospitality milestones are concentrated, Hontanas and the convent of San Antón, and you arrive at Castrojeriz, a village declared a Historic Ensemble with rich monumental heritage. The general feeling is that of a quiet and physically comfortable day, but intense culturally, especially in its final section.

Recommendation from The Way

Recommendation in stage 14: Hornillos del Camino – Castrojeriz

This stage is accessible, but several aspects worth noting based on verified information:

Have breakfast and leave provisioned: from Hornillos to Hontanas are about 10 km with no services. It is important to have a good breakfast before leaving and carry water and some food, as the first village with services is Hontanas.
Sun exposure: as in the previous stage, the pilgrim is very exposed to the sun, especially in the first half. In summer it is important to carry sufficient water, sun protection, and avoid the hours of maximum heat.
The detour to Arroyo de San Bol: the shelter and fountain of Arroyo de San Bol are somewhat off the route (about 200 m). It is an optional stop with certain mystique among pilgrims, but involves a small detour.
Final section by road: the stretch between the convent of San Antón and Castrojeriz runs beside the local road, with little shoulder. It is important to walk with attention to traffic, especially in a group.
For those cycling: the stage is cyclable and has a gentle profile, although dirt tracks with stones can be uncomfortable. The passage under the arch of San Antón and the entrance to Castrojeriz by road present no major difficulty.
Accessibility: several sources note that the path, due to its stony surface, is difficult or not advisable for people with reduced mobility; the final section by road could be done, but with caution due to lack of shoulder.
Reserve time for Castrojeriz: as it is a short stage, it is worth arriving with time to visit the village’s heritage (Manzano collegiate, churches, and castle). Many pilgrims continue to Itero de la Vega if seeking a longer day.

Distance and elevation

Stage profile

The route connects Hornillos del Camino with Castrojeriz over about 20 km, with an estimated duration of about 4 and a half hours of walking, not counting stops.

The profile follows the Meseta pattern of gentle climbs, flat stretches, and descents. At departure from Hornillos there is a climb of about 100 m elevation gain over about 3 km, quite manageable, until reaching a first plateau at about 930 m elevation. After a long flat stretch across the plateau, the Way descends toward Hontanas, which appears characteristically almost without warning, hidden in a ravine. From Hontanas the route levels out following the valley, passes under the arch of the convent of San Antón, and continues, now via local road, to Castrojeriz.

The terrain type is mostly dirt track and loose stone across the plateau, with the final section asphalt between San Antón and Castrojeriz. As a practical note, the real difficulty is not in the elevation gain, but in the exposure and in the length of the initial section without services.

Step-by-step route

Itinerary

Km 0

· Hornillos del Camino

Departure via Calle Real, which leads to the local road. Soon you abandon the asphalt to take a trail that starts to the right and climbs toward the plateau. A gentle and sustained climb begins.

Around Km 5

· Arroyo de San Bol (detour)

After reaching the first plateau summit and descending slightly, you pass near Arroyo de San Bol. The shelter and fountain are about 200 m off the route, as an optional stop. The surroundings are solitary, in the middle of the cereal plain.

Around Km 10–11

· Hontanas

After a long stretch of plateau, the Way descends and Hontanas appears, nestled in a hollow. It is the only intermediate village and has services (bars, shop, and several shelters). Its name derives from the numerous fountains (from “fontanas”). A good point to rest and regain strength.

Around Km 16–17

· Convent of San Antón

From Hontanas, the route follows the valley, in part beside the road, until arriving at the ruins of the convent of San Antón. The Way literally passes under its great Gothic arch, which crosses the road. It is one of the most evocative places of the stage.

Final Km (around Km 20)

· Castrojeriz

From San Antón, about 3 km via local road lead to Castrojeriz, which stretches in elongated form at the foot of a hill crowned by the ruins of its castle. You enter beside the collegiate church of the Virgin of the Apple and walk through the village via its main street. Stage ending.

During the route

What to See

Arroyo de San Bol

A solitary spot in the middle of the plateau, with a small shelter and a fountain, linked to an ancient settlement and to traditions among pilgrims. It lies somewhat off the route and constitutes an optional stop that is more anecdotal than monumental in character.

Hontanas

A village nestled in a ravine, with origins linked to its many fountains. It preserves the Church of the Immaculate Conception (or of the Conception), begun in Gothic style, later reformed, with a notable Baroque altarpiece. It maintains buildings with a tradition of pilgrim hospitality, such as the so-called Hospital of the French.

Convent (Monastery) of San Antón

Ruins of a convent-hospital founded in 1146 under Alfonso VII and governed by the Hospitaller Order of Saint Anthony (Antonians), dedicated to caring for pilgrims and healing the so-called “Saint Anthony’s Fire” (ergotism), a disease caused by ergot fungus on rye. It preserves a great Gothic arch that crosses the road forming a tunnel, a notable doorway, and the ogival windows of the apse. It is considered one of Spain’s largest Gothic arches. The order disappeared in the late eighteenth century and the ensemble fell into ruins; today it houses, in season, a pilgrim shelter.

Ex-collegiate Church of Santa María del Manzano (Castrojeriz)

A temple erected between the thirteenth and later centuries, at the entrance to the village. It houses the image of the Virgin of the Apple, a polychrome stone Gothic carving from the thirteenth century, linked to the Cantigas of Alfonso X the Wise. It is one of the most emblematic monuments of Castrojeriz.

Churches of Santo Domingo, San Juan, and San Esteban (Castrojeriz)

The village preserves several temples of interest: the Church of Santo Domingo, Gothic, with plateresque doorway; the Church of San Juan, in Gothic style, with cloister; and the former Church of San Esteban, converted to cultural and hospitality use. Castrojeriz is declared a Historic Ensemble.

Castle of Castrojeriz

Ruins of a castle of ancient origin that crowns the hill on which the village is situated. It dominates the village and the Meseta surroundings, and is a visual reference point for the entire stage.

Towns of the stage

Localities

Hornillos del Camino

Starting point of the stage. Small municipality of a few dozen inhabitants, a characteristic example of a way-village organized around its Calle Real. It preserves the Church of San Román and keeps the Jacobean tradition alive, with several shelters. It has no ATM or pharmacy.

Hontanas

A small locality of around one hundred inhabitants, situated in a hollow that hides it until you almost arrive. Its name alludes to the numerous fountains in the area. The only intermediate village of the stage, it has services for the pilgrim (bars, shop, and several shelters). It preserves the Church of the Immaculate Conception and buildings with a tradition of pilgrim hospitality.

Castrojeriz

Stage ending. A historic village that stretches in elongated form at the foot of a hill crowned by the ruins of its castle. Declared a Historic Ensemble, it offers all services to the pilgrim and concentrates notable heritage: the collegiate church of Santa María del Manzano, the churches of Santo Domingo, San Juan, and San Esteban, and the nearby convent of San Antón. It is one of the great cultural milestones of the crossing of the Meseta.

Route map