Vila Praia de Âncora
❯A Guarda
Stage 5 · Portuguese way
Information
The stage between Vila Praia de Âncora and A Guarda is one of the most special days of the Portuguese Way by the Coast. It is not especially long or demanding, but it contains one of the most symbolic moments of the entire route: the pilgrim bids farewell to Portugal in Caminha, crosses the mouth of the Miño River by boat, and enters Galicia via A Pasaxe, in A Guarda. From that moment, Santiago de Compostela is already within the same territory through which the Way will continue during the following days.
In the habitual route, the stage is approximately 12.8 kilometers, including the small section traveled by boat. From Vila Praia de Âncora to Caminha there are approximately 8.5 km; after crossing the Miño, about 3.5 km of walking remain from O Pasaxe to A Guarda’s center. It is, therefore, a short day that allows walking peacefully and stopping at some of the route’s most interesting places.
The first kilometers continue to have a marked Atlantic character. From Vila Praia de Âncora, the Way advances toward Moledo, alternating small roads, paths near the railroad line, and sections from which the ocean is directly seen. Opposite Moledo beach appears one of this coast’s best-known images: the Forte da Ínsua, built on a small rocky islet facing the Portuguese coast.
From Moledo you can continue via the marked route toward Caminha or choose a somewhat longer alternative that stays near the sea and crosses the Mata do Camarido, a large pine forest located beside the Miño’s mouth. This second option adds approximately 1.1 kilometers, but allows enjoying a much more attractive natural landscape before entering Caminha.
Caminha deserves a peaceful stop. It is the last Portuguese locality on this route and preserves an interesting historic center presided over by the Tower of the Clock, an old main tower of the medieval wall, and the Parish Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção, declared a National Monument in 1910.
From here comes the day’s major change: crossing the Miño River. The official entry of the Portuguese Way by the Coast into Galicia occurs at A Guarda after crossing the estuary from Caminha.
An important practical matter must be considered: the traditional Caminha–A Guarda ferry is currently out of service. For pilgrims there is water transport between the Caminhense Sporting Club dock and O Pasaxe, in Camposancos. The service is conditioned by tides and weather, so it is recommended to check schedules beforehand and reserve the crossing.
Once in Galicia, the environment changes again. The Way begins beside the Miño estuary, skirts the slopes of the imposing Santa Trega Hill and crosses rural paths and small nuclei of Camposancos before reaching A Guarda’s center, the first Galician locality of the Portuguese Way by the Coast.
Route map
Recommendation from The Way
Recommendation for Stage 5: Vila Praia de Âncora – A Guarda
The main difficulty of this day is not physical, but logistical. The Miño River crossing must be organized before leaving or, at minimum, before arriving in Caminha.
The traditional ferry that still appears in many Way guides is not currently operational. The A Guarda Town Council indicates that pilgrims can use the Xacobeo Transfer water service, which makes the crossing between Caminha and O Pasaxe with a small boat. The service operates whenever weather and tide conditions permit. For this reason, one should not rely on old schedules published on other pages: the recommendation is to check availability for the specific day of the stage.
If conditions prevented sailing, the land alternative involves detouring toward Vila Nova de Cerveira, where the Miño bridge that connects Portugal to Goián, in Tomiño, is found. This is a considerably longer solution and completely changes this stage’s nature, so checking the crossing in advance is recommended.
Between Moledo and Caminha there is also an interesting decision. The marked itinerary continues inland, near the railroad line, while a variant of approximately 1.1 additional km allows staying closer to the coast and crossing the Mata do Camarido before reaching the estuary. If weather cooperates and there is no rush, this second option is especially attractive for its landscape.
The stage is short, so it is not necessary to leave with the same urgency as on 25 or 30 kilometer days. However, the boat’s schedule should mark the day’s planning. It is preferable to adapt departure from Vila Praia de Âncora to the crossing time rather than arrive too early or when service is no longer available.
Those who wish to climb Santa Trega Hill should consider that visit as additional effort and not as part of the ordinary route. The hill reaches somewhat more than 300 meters in height and its paths add considerable elevation to a stage that is otherwise simple. The reward is views over the Miño estuary, Portugal, and the Atlantic.
Stage profile
The complete stage is approximately 12.8 km, of which about 8.5 km correspond to the Portuguese section to Caminha. After the boat crossing, just over three kilometers remain to A Guarda’s center.
The profile is quite comfortable. There are no major ascents and most of the route develops at low altitude, first beside the Portuguese coast and then around the Miño estuary. After disembarking at O Pasaxe some small climbs appear while skirting Santa Trega Hill’s slope, but are not comparable to the elevation that would be involved in ascending to the summit.
The stage can be completed in about 3 hours of effective walking, to which must be added time dedicated to visiting Caminha and, especially, waiting for and crossing the Miño. For this reason, the day’s total time will depend more on river transport than on walking pace.
Itinerary
Km 0
· Vila Praia de Âncora
The stage begins in Vila Praia de Âncora, immediately recovering the maritime atmosphere that characterizes this part of the Way.
From the center you advance toward the Forte da Lagarteira area and continue northward practically parallel to the ocean and the railroad line. During the first kilometers, the Atlantic reference is again constant.
The day begins very gently. The terrain allows advancing easily and, unlike the previous stage from Viana do Castelo, forest paths and successions of small elevation changes practically disappear.
Upon leaving Vila Praia de Âncora, the pilgrim leaves behind one of the last great Portuguese maritime nuclei before reaching the natural boundary formed by the Miño.
Km 2-3
· Coast between Âncora and Moledo
The route continues northward via a narrow strip situated between the Atlantic, the railroad line, and the first interior elevations.
Small residential areas are crossed and different accesses to the coast appear. In this part it is especially easy to understand the Way’s geography: the pilgrim is traversing the final kilometers of Portugal with the sea permanently on their left and mountains on the right.
In the area near Moledo you also pass by the small Chapel of Santo Isidoro, whose existence is documented at least from the fourteenth century.
Km 4,7
· Moledo
Approximately at km 4.7 you reach Moledo, one of Caminha municipality’s best-known coastal localities.
Its great protagonist is Moledo Beach, an extensive beach open to the Atlantic that became popular as a summer destination from the early twentieth century. Opposite it is the small islet of Ínsua.
On that islet stands the Forte da Ínsua, one of this stage’s main visual reference points. The enclave was initially linked to a religious community and was later reinforced as a fortification to protect this part of the coast and the Miño River’s entrance.
From Moledo, the pilgrim can continue via the marked itinerary or approach the coast again.
Coastal Variant
· Mata do Camarido
The coastal alternative between Moledo and Caminha adds approximately 1.1 kilometers compared to the most direct route. Instead of following close to the road and railroad for the entire section, it continues toward the mouth crossing the Mata do Camarido.
This large pine forest occupies the area between Moledo, Caminha, the Atlantic, and the Miño estuary.
As you advance, the landscape begins transforming. Open sea gradually gives way to the mouth and on the other side of the river Galicia begins to be distinguished.
The silhouette of Santa Trega Hill also appears on the horizon, which will accompany the pilgrim during the day’s end.
Km 8,5
· Caminha
Arrival at Caminha marks the last major point of the Way in Portugal.
The route reaches the locality’s center approximately at km 8.5, entering a historic town surrounded by the Coura River, the Miño, and old frontier defenses.
Caminha’s heart is the Counselor Silva Torres Square, where some of its most representative buildings are found.
The Tower of the Clock originally formed part of Caminha’s medieval defensive system and protected the old Gate of Viana. It was in the seventeenth century, after a public clock was installed in it, that it began receiving its current name. It is classified as a National Monument.
It is also recommended to approach the Parish Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção. The temple brings together Gothic, Manueline, Renaissance, and other influences and was declared a National Monument in 1910. Among its most singular elements is the Chapel of Seafarers, dated to 1511.
Caminha is a perfect place to stop while waiting for crossing time. After this stop, the Way leaves Portugal.
Crossing the Miño River
· Caminha – O Pasaxe
From the historic center you must head toward the dock beside the Caminhense Sporting Club.
Here occurs one of the most singular moments of the entire Portuguese Way by the Coast: the pilgrim does not cross a border by road or via a bridge, but by sailing the Miño estuary.
Currently, the traditional ferry between Caminha and A Guarda is not operational. The pilgrim crossing is done via a small boat service that connects Caminha with O Pasaxe, in Camposancos. Availability is conditioned by tide and river conditions, so it should be checked before completing the stage.
During navigation an extraordinary panorama opens over the mouth: Portugal remains behind, Galicia appears ahead, and Santa Trega Hill dominates the entire north bank of the river.
It is also the moment when the time zone changes: Spain has one hour more than mainland Portugal.
Km approx. 9.2
· O Pasaxe – Camposancos
The landing takes place at O Pasaxe, within the Camposancos parish and already in A Guarda municipality.
This point officially represents the Portuguese Way by the Coast’s entry into Galicia. The official Galician route itself begins here before heading toward A Guarda and continuing later toward Oia.
Right after disembarking, the landscape has little to do with Caminha’s historic center. The estuary, small roads, scattered houses, and rural paths on Santa Trega Hill’s slope appear.
In the O Pasaxe area is also found the old Jesuit College, a building that had notable importance in A Guarda’s educational history during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The Way passes through this area before beginning to gain slight height.
Km 10-11
· Camposancos and Santa Trega Hill’s Slope
From O Pasaxe, arrows lead the pilgrim through Camposancos, skirting Santa Trega Hill without directly climbing to its summit.
The route crosses small streets and rural paths and passes through the Saa neighborhood area before heading toward A Guarda’s urban nucleus.
Santa Trega Hill constantly appears above the pilgrim. Although the Jacobean route does not ascend to its summit, the place deserves an independent visit.
The mountain houses one of Galicia’s most important archaeological ensembles: the Castro of Santa Trega, a large Galician-Roman settlement that reached one of its moments of greatest development between the first century BC and first century AD. Petroglyphs much older still exist on the hill itself.
From its highest points the Miño mouth, the Portuguese coast, the Atlantic, and O Rosal valley are contemplated.
Km 12,8
· A Guarda
The final section gradually enters A Guarda’s urban nucleus, the first major Galician locality of the Portuguese Way by the Coast.
After the estuary and rural paths of Camposancos, the pilgrim reaches a town of strong maritime tradition situated between the Atlantic and Santa Trega Hill’s slopes.
The historic center preserves narrow streets and traditional buildings around the Clock Square. Very near are found the parish church of Santa María, remains of the old wall, and different examples of local architecture.
Another of its great places is the Castle of Santa Cruz, a seventeenth-century fortress built in the context of border conflicts between Spain and Portugal. Currently its grounds can be visited as public space.
The day can end beside the fishing port, from where the Atlantic reappears, which will continue accompanying the pilgrim during the next stage toward Oia.
What to See
Moledo Beach and Forte da Ínsua
Moledo beach offers one of the most characteristic panoramas of the Way’s final Portuguese kilometers.
Opposite the coast is found the Forte da Ínsua, built on a rocky islet that historically had religious and defensive functions. Its position at the Miño’s entrance explains this small territory’s strategic importance for centuries.
Historic Center of Caminha
Caminha deserves more than just passing through to reach the dock.
The locality preserves parts of its old defenses, traditional streets, and a monumental ensemble especially concentrated around Counselor Silva Torres Square.
It is also the last Portuguese locality before entering Galicia, so it has special significance within this stage.
Tower of the Clock
The Tower of the Clock was originally one of Caminha’s medieval enclosure’s main defensive towers.
It protected the Gate of Viana and received its current name after a public clock was installed during the seventeenth century. It preserves its Gothic military architecture aspect and is classified as a National Monument.
Parish Church of Caminha
The Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção is one of the most outstanding religious buildings of all northern Portugal.
It combines different architectural stages and styles and preserves Gothic, Manueline, and Renaissance elements. Its Chapel of Seafarers, dated to 1511, is especially significant for its relationship with Caminha’s historic maritime community. The temple has been a National Monument since 1910.
Miño River Estuary
The Miño crossing itself is one of the stage’s main attractions.
The river reaches the Atlantic here forming a wide estuary of great landscape and natural value. From the boat the Portuguese coast, Caminha, the enormous mouth, and Santa Trega Hill rising above the Galician bank are seen.
Castro of Santa Trega
Although climbing the hill requires detouring and adding substantial effort to the day, the Castro of Santa Trega is one of A Guarda’s must-see visits.
It is one of Galicia’s most emblematic Galician-Roman settlements. Official Way documentation indicates continuous occupation between the first century BC and first century AD, although petroglyphs carved much before castro occupation are also preserved on the hill.
Its archaeological value is completed with extraordinary views over the Miño, Portugal, and the Atlantic.
Castle of Santa Cruz
The Castle of Santa Cruz is one of A Guarda’s main defensive constructions.
The fortress was built in the seventeenth century and belongs to the ensemble of defensive systems constructed on both sides of the Miño during conflicts arising from Portuguese independence. The grounds still preserve its walls and can be toured as public space.
Port and Historic Center of A Guarda
The stage’s end deserves a walk through the fishing port and historic center.
A Guarda maintains a strong maritime identity, visible both in its port and in old houses and streets near the sea. Clock Square functions as one of the historic nucleus’s main reference points.
Localities
District: Viana do Castelo
Vila Praia de Âncora
Vila Praia de Âncora is this fifth day’s starting point and one of the last great Portuguese maritime nuclei before reaching Galicia.
Its port, extensive beach, and the Forte da Lagarteira reflect the locality’s historical connection with fishing, navigation, and coastal defense.
From here the Way immediately recovers the north direction and continues practically beside the Atlantic toward Moledo.
District: Viana do Castelo
Moledo
Moledo is located approximately midway between Vila Praia de Âncora and Caminha.
It is especially known for its beach and for views of the Forte da Ínsua, situated on an islet opposite the coast. Its location allows simultaneously viewing the ocean, northern Portugal’s first elevations, and, upon approaching Caminha, Santa Trega Hill in Galician territory.
District: Viana do Castelo
Caminha
Caminha is this stage’s last Portuguese locality and one of this Way section’s places with the greatest character.
Situated at the confluence of the Coura and Miño rivers, facing Galicia, it was for centuries a strategic border stronghold. Its historic center preserves the Tower of the Clock, old defensive remains, the Igreja da Misericórdia, and the monumental Parish Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção.
For the pilgrim it has an additional special meaning: it is here where they bid farewell to Portugal and board to cross the Miño.
District: Pontevedra
Camposancos
Camposancos occupies A Guarda municipality’s southwestern part, between the Miño River, the Atlantic, and Santa Trega Hill’s slopes.
At O Pasaxe is found the arrival point for pilgrims coming from Caminha. From here the Galician section of the Portuguese Way by the Coast officially begins.
The area combines small residential nuclei, rural paths, and some historical elements like the old Jesuit College.
District: Pontevedra
A Guarda
A Guarda is the Portuguese Way by the Coast’s first Galician town and this stage’s goal. The official route crosses approximately 9 kilometers of its municipality before continuing toward O Rosal, combining the Miño estuary, the urban center, and the Atlantic coast.
Its identity is determined by three great elements: the sea, the Miño River, and Santa Trega Hill.
The famous castro of Santa Trega rises above the population, while in the center Clock Square, the Church of Santa María, and the Castle of Santa Cruz stand out. In the lower part, the port recalls A Guarda’s long relationship with fishing and the Atlantic.
This arrival also has special symbolic significance: after several days crossing Portugal, the Way continues through Galicia toward Santiago de Compostela.
Route map
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