Viana do Castelo
❯Vila Praia de Âncora
Stage 4 · Portuguese way
Information
The stage between Viana do Castelo and Vila Praia de Âncora is one of the most pleasant days of the Portuguese Way by the Coast. After the previous stage, which was longer and had numerous rural sections, the pilgrim now faces approximately 18–19 kilometers and can choose between two routes with very different characters: the official Way, marked with traditional yellow arrows and slightly displaced inland, or the coastal variant, which advances practically beside the Atlantic. Both options meet again in Vila Praia de Âncora.
The official route leaves Viana do Castelo’s historic center and begins circling the Santa Luzia hill. Through small streets, cobbled paths, and rural areas it reaches Areosa, continues toward Carreço, and ends by entering the green landscapes of Afife. Although the ocean does not remain constantly beside the pilgrim, it appears in numerous panoramas during the route.
This option presents a quite different profile from the maritime variant. A recent route recording places the official itinerary distance at 19.02 km, with about 277 meters of positive elevation and a maximum altitude close to 125 meters. There is no especially long climb, but rather a succession of small ascents and descents, cobbled paths, and some dirt sections that make the route more demanding than its distance might suggest.
The coastal variant is much flatter. From Viana it allows heading toward Praia Norte and continuing beside the ocean following sectors of the GR-1 and the Northern Coast Ecovia, alternating promenades, wooden walkways, beaches, and coastal paths. In this route such characteristic places appear as the Forte da Areosa, the Montedor area, and the Carreço lighthouse.
The official route, however, offers a particularly interesting historical and rural component. In just a few kilometers appear the Quinta da Boa Viagem, Carreço church, and the Convent of São João de Cabanas, surrounded by forest in Afife. The latter is protected as an Asset of Public Interest along with its woodland and surrounding lands.
The day’s ending leads toward the Âncora River, which is crossed before beginning entry into Vila Praia de Âncora. The locality again places the pilgrim directly facing the ocean and preserves a marked maritime tradition, in addition to two visits of special interest: the Forte da Lagarteira and the Anta da Barrosa, one of the most important megalithic monuments in this northern Portugal area.
Route map
Recommendation from The Way
Recommendation for Stage 4: Viana do Castelo – Vila Praia de Âncora
The main decision of this stage is made practically upon leaving Viana do Castelo: follow the yellow arrows via the official route or walk beside the ocean via the coastal variant.
The official route is the best option for those who want to strictly follow the marked Way and enjoy a combination of heritage, villages, forests, and old paths. It presents somewhat more elevation and some cobbled or rocky sections, especially from Afife onward, but allows knowing places such as the Quinta da Boa Viagem and the Convent of São João de Cabanas.
The coastal alternative is especially attractive if you prefer walking with the Atlantic in view during practically the entire day. It is much flatter and uses the Northern Coast Ecovia, promenades, and walkways, although it does not count with the same Jacobean signage. Orientation is simple because the permanent reference is the coastline.
On rainy days, the cobbles of the official route can be slippery. In the coastal variant, conversely, the main inconveniences are wind, lack of shade, and some sandy sections. For bicycles, the inland route can be uncomfortable in the rockiest sections, while certain areas of walkways of the coastal alternative are also not ideal for riding.
You should also take special care in Areosa, where the official route crosses a railroad passage without barriers.
Since this is a relatively short day, it is a good stage to walk without haste and reserve time at the end to know Vila Praia de Âncora.
Stage profile
The official route has approximately 18–19 kilometers. A route recorded following Jacobean signage reaches 19.02 km, with 277 meters of accumulated ascent and 283 meters of descent. The highest point is around 125 meters, so there are no major ascents, although the profile presents small climbs and descents quite continuously.
The terrain changes several times during the day. Until approaching Afife asphalt, traditional streets, and cobbled paths predominate; later dirt tracks and more irregular sections also appear.
Usual duration can be placed around 4.5 to 5 hours of effective walking, although it is recommended to have more time to stop at Carreço, the Convent of São João de Cabanas, and different points of interest along the route.
Itinerary
Km 0
· Viana do Castelo
The stage begins in the heart of Viana do Castelo, one of the cities with the greatest heritage of the Portuguese Way by the Coast.
From the Republic Square, the official route continues via the Promenade of the Mordomas and Rua Cândido dos Reis until reaching General Luís do Rego Street. Then, the Way crosses the railroad zone and begins gaining height via streets surrounding the Santa Luzia hill.
The change from the previous day is evident from the beginning. Rather than continuing directly along the beach, yellow arrows lead toward small streets located in the upper part of Viana.
Very soon you pass near the Church of the Holy Martyrs, located approximately during the first kilometer of the route.
From here you continue around the Santa Luzia hill, with some points from which the Atlantic and the coast that will be traveled during the coming hours can still be seen.
Km 4,1
· Quinta and Chapel of Boa Viagem
After leaving behind the most urban area, the Way begins crossing much quieter streets among stone walls, quintas (estates), and vegetation.
A small stone bridge allows crossing a stream before reaching the Quinta da Boa Viagem area. Facing its entrance is the chapel dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem, an advocacy especially related to those who set out to sea and with travelers.
The quinta is a historic property whose gardens preserve ornamental and Baroque elements, and is one of the first important heritage points after leaving Viana.
Km 4,9
· Areosa
Shortly after you reach the Areosa area.
The Way continues for several meters via asphalt streets and crosses small residential zones before again entering among scattered houses, granite walls, and pine groves.
Although the route runs inland, at several points beautiful views open over the coast.
In this part you must pay special attention to a railroad crossing without barriers that forms part of the official route. Cross it only after checking that no train is approaching.
From Areosa you continue toward Carreço.
Km 7-8
· Carreço
The Way gradually enters Carreço, one of this stage’s main localities.
Before reaching the nucleus you pass small streets and paths surrounded by vegetation. The route recording places the Chapel of São Paio at approximately km 7 and Carreço’s parish church shortly after.
The Church of Santa Maria de Carreço has its origin in the late sixteenth century and combines late Manueline and Renaissance elements; the tower was added later, in the eighteenth century.
After passing the church, the Way continues near the railroad and follows the cobbled Avenue of Paço.
From this area views toward the Montedor Lighthouse and the Atlantic also appear.
Coastal Variant
· Montedor and Forte de Paçô
Those who have chosen the variant following the ocean reach at this same part of the day one of the stage’s great natural and heritage spaces: Montedor.
The Montedor Lighthouse came into operation in 1910. Its square tower reaches about 28 meters and the light is located approximately 103 meters above mean sea level.
The surroundings also preserve old windmills, the so-called Fornelos salt ponds, excavated in granite outcrops to favor seawater evaporation, and the Forte de Paçô, built within the network of small fortifications that defended this coast section during the Portuguese Restoration War.
It is one of the main arguments for choosing the coastal variant.
Km 8-10
· From Carreço toward Afife
After leaving Carreço, the official route enters a eucalyptus forest for a time.
Cobbled paths again become protagonists and the urban feeling gradually disappears.
It is an especially tranquil section, protected by vegetation and very different from the open walkways facing the Atlantic that had characterized the Portuguese Way by the Coast’s first stages.
Gradually, the Way enters Afife territory.
Km 11-12
· Afife and São João de Cabanas
In the Afife area appears one of the entire day’s most distinctive places: the Convent of São João de Cabanas.
The ensemble is integrated among trees and very close to Afife’s river. It consists of the church, convent buildings, and the landscape that has historically surrounded the old monastery. The entire ensemble, including its woodland and lands forming part of its architectural surroundings, is protected as an Asset of Public Interest.
The monastery’s tradition is very ancient. Local history places its origins in the High Middle Ages and records long subsequent connection with the Benedictine Order.
It is an especially pleasant place to make a brief stop, as it is completely integrated in a green and tranquil environment.
After crossing the bridge near the convent, the Way continues beside the watercourse and begins combining paved roads, small steps, and rocky paths.
Km 12-14,8
· Afife Paths
Here probably begins the most irregular section of the day.
The Way ascends rocky terrain and continues later via old cobbled paths and trails among vegetation. These are not especially large elevation changes, but the surface requires walking with somewhat more attention.
Afife preserves a very characteristic landscape in which sea, agricultural fields, hamlets, and hills mix, and its traditional heritage includes mills, mills, small chapels, and old paths.
After several small climbs and descents you reach Barreiros.
Km 14,8
· Barreiros
At Barreiros appears an old wash house and one of several cruceiros that accompany the pilgrim during this part of the Way.
Cruceiros are especially characteristic of this sector. Some found during the route date from the eighteenth century and recall the strong presence of small religious elements in the old paths of northern Portugal.
From here you already begin to feel the proximity of Vila Praia de Âncora.
The Way continues descending gradually toward the river valley.
Km 15,5-16
· Âncora River
One of the final natural landmarks of the stage is the Âncora River.
The route reaches a stone platform that allows crossing the watercourse. After crossing, the pilgrim takes a path leading toward the N-305 and continues via Rua da Barrosa.
The landscape begins changing again. Forests and rural paths gradually give way to houses and streets announcing the stage’s proximity to the end.
After crossing a pine area, you reach Vila Praia de Âncora’s urban surroundings.
Km 18-19
· Vila Praia de Âncora
Arrival at Vila Praia de Âncora definitively returns the pilgrim beside the Atlantic.
The entrance leads toward the Republic Square, from where just a few minutes’ walk leads to the seafront and the extensive beach.
The population, historically known as Gontinhães, adopted the name Vila Praia de Âncora in 1924. Its history is profoundly tied to the sea, the Âncora River, and its position on a coast that for centuries was exposed to both navigation and attacks from the ocean.
At the port’s end is found the Forte da Lagarteira, built within the defensive system raised during the Portuguese Restoration period to protect this coastal strip. It is classified as an Asset of Public Interest.
But the locality’s heritage is much older. A short distance from the center is found the Anta da Barrosa, a megalithic funeral monument composed of a polygonal chamber and corridor, recognized as a National Monument since 1910.
After a relatively short stage, it is recommended to reserve the afternoon to explore the seafront and know these places before continuing the next day toward Caminha and the Galicia border.
What to See
Quinta and Chapel of Boa Viagem
The Quinta da Boa Viagem appears during the first kilometers after leaving Viana do Castelo.
The ensemble stands out for the manor house, its gardens, and the small chapel situated beside the entrance. The advocacy of Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem is closely related to travelers and navigators, giving the place an especially appropriate meaning within a pilgrimage route.
Church of Santa Maria de Carreço
The parish church of Carreço is one of the main monuments situated directly on the official Way.
The temple dates to the late sixteenth century and presents a combination of late Manueline and Renaissance elements. The tower is later and was built in the eighteenth century.
Montedor Lighthouse
The lighthouse is not on the most direct inland route, but is one of the great visits of the coastal variant.
It is situated on Montedor’s promontory, in Carreço, and began operating in 1910. Its granite tower measures approximately 28 meters and rises more than a hundred meters above sea level.
The environment, open directly to the Atlantic, makes it also one of the stage’s main panoramic points.
Montedor Windmills and Fornelos Salt Ponds
The Montedor area preserves different elements related to traditional land use.
The Montedor Windmills are protected as assets of public interest and some were restored to preserve their old functioning. Very close are found the Fornelos Salt Ponds, small cavities excavated in granite that allowed retaining seawater to favor its evaporation.
Convent of São João de Cabanas
Surrounded by Afife’s vegetation, the old convent is probably the most special heritage stop of the inland route.
It was a monastery linked to the Benedictine tradition and its long history has left an ensemble formed by church, convent buildings, and lands integrated in a landscape of great value. It is currently classified as an Asset of Public Interest.
Forte da Lagarteira
Already in Vila Praia de Âncora, the Forte da Lagarteira recalls the strategic importance this coast historically had.
The fortification was built during the Restoration period to reinforce defense against maritime attacks. It presents a characteristic defensive layout with bastions and forms part of the locality’s protected heritage.
Anta da Barrosa
The Anta da Barrosa, also known as Lapa dos Mouros, takes the history of this stage several millennia back.
It is a megalithic funeral construction formed by eight large orthostats, a roofing slab, and a corridor approximately six meters in length. It was excavated in the nineteenth century and has been classified as a National Monument since 1910.
It is one of the Âncora valley’s best-preserved prehistoric monuments.
Waterfront of Vila Praia de Âncora
The best way to end the day is to return beside the ocean.
The extensive beach, the fishing port, the Forte da Lagarteira, and the mountains rising inland form the characteristic landscape of Vila Praia de Âncora.
From Monte do Calvário a panorama of the locality, the Atlantic, and the Serra de Arga is also obtained.
Localities
District: Viana do Castelo
Viana do Castelo
Viana do Castelo is the stage’s starting point and one of the Portuguese Way by the Coast’s most important monumental cities.
Its historic center, the Republic Square, the cathedral, and numerous religious and civil constructions justify dedicating time before continuing northward. The Santa Luzia hill rises above the city, which the Way begins circling upon leaving Viana.
District: Viana do Castelo
Areosa
Areosa occupies the first kilometers after leaving the city.
The route crosses a transitional landscape between Viana’s urban environment and Carreço’s more rural areas. Small streets, houses, granite walls, and pine groves accompany the pilgrim, with the Atlantic appearing occasionally in the background.
The Forte da Areosa is also found on Areosa’s coastal strip, forming part of the old defensive network built to protect the Portuguese coast.
District: Viana do Castelo
Carreço
Carreço is one of this stage’s most interesting nuclei because it allows choosing between the official Way’s rural heritage and some of the maritime variant’s main attractions.
On the marked route is found the Church of Santa Maria. Closer to the ocean appear Montedor, its lighthouse, windmills, old salt ponds, and the Forte de Paçô.
District: Viana do Castelo
Afife
Afife is an old parish situated beside the Atlantic, approximately ten kilometers north of Viana do Castelo.
Its territory combines sea, agricultural lands, hamlets, and hills, and preserves numerous elements of traditional architecture and heritage. Especially notable among them is the Convent of São João de Cabanas, along with mills, mills, small chapels, and old paths.
For the pilgrim it also represents the greenest and most rural sector of this day.
District: Viana do Castelo
Vila Praia de Âncora
Vila Praia de Âncora is this fourth stage’s goal and one of the final Portuguese section’s main maritime nuclei of the Way.
The old locality of Gontinhães adopted its current name in 1924, although its documented history dates back many centuries. Its position beside the Âncora River’s mouth explains its traditional relationship with navigation, fishing, and coastal defense.
Today, the Forte da Lagarteira, the port, the waterfront, and the extensive beach maintain that maritime identity. To them is added the Anta da Barrosa, demonstrating that human occupation of the valley is much older.
From here, the next stage continues toward Caminha, where the Way prepares to cross the Miño and enter Galicia.
Route map
Ready to begin your journey?