Home Camino de Santiago Camino Francés Stage 31 of the French Way: Palas de Rei – Arzúa

Palas de Rei
Arzúa

28,5km

STAGE DISTANCE

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Portomarín ❯ Palas de Rei

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Arzúa ❯ O Pedrouzo

Pilgrim traffic
Difficulty
Art / History
Nature
Urban route

Stage 31 · French way

Information

About this stage

The stage between Palas de Rei and Arzúa has an approximate distance of 28.5 km, a duration close to 6 hours and 45 minutes, and a profile of continuous climbs and descents. It is one of the longest days of the French Way’s final kilometers and accumulates about 491 meters of ascent and 653 meters of descent.

During the route you will leave Lugo Province to enter A Coruña, crossing forests, villages, small rivers, and rural paths. You will also encounter some less attractive sectors beside the N-547 and in the industrial area before Melide.

Melide practically divides the day into two parts. From there about 14.5 km still remain to Arzúa, passing through Boente, Castañeda, and Ribadiso. It is a long stage, so Melide also allows comfortably dividing the route into two days.

Route map

Recommendation from The Way

Recommendation in stage 31: Palas de Rei – Arzúa

Distance is the main challenge. Although you will not find major passes, the constant ups and downs can accumulate considerable fatigue, especially after Melide. If you do not have good physical preparation, dividing the stage into Palas de Rei → Melide and Melide → Arzúa is a perfectly valid option.

After rain you will find dirt paths, stone, and quite wet sections. It is wise to pay attention on descents and when crossing small rivers and streams.

If you do the Way by bicycle, the difficulty is moderate, but some rocky paths and descents can be uncomfortable with wet terrain.

For people with reduced mobility, this day requires considerably more planning. The ONCE Foundation assigns it a physical difficulty of 4 out of 6 and points out numerous irregular sections, road crossings, and areas where assistance may be necessary.

Distance and elevation

Stage profile

A stage of 28.5 km, with approximately 491 m of ascent and 653 m of descent. The profile is irregular and constantly alternates climbs and descents, especially after Melide.

The Way passes through San Xiao do Camiño, Casanova, O Coto, O Leboreiro, Furelos, Melide, Boente, Castañeda, and Ribadiso before ending in Arzúa.

Step-by-step route

Itinerary

Km 0

· Palas de Rei

The stage begins in Palas de Rei and leaves the locality via the Campo dos Romeiros, an ancient meeting point for pilgrims.

After crossing the main road, you will enter rural paths that lead toward O Carballal. The landscape changes rapidly and is again dominated by forests, meadows, and small villages.

Km 3.5

· San Xiao do Camiño

San Xiao do Camiño is a small locality situated directly on the Jacobean route.

The village preserves a church and a cruceiro of interest. After leaving it behind, the Way continues alternating descents and small climbs among wooded areas.

Intermediate Section

· Ponte Campaña and Casanova

After San Xiao you will advance toward Ponte Campaña, crossing the Pambre River before continuing to Casanova.

The route alternates asphalt tracks and dirt paths. In some sections the surface is irregular, especially when it has rained.

From Casanova you will continue descending toward the valley before recovering height in the direction of A Campanilla.

Km 8.4 approx.

· O Coto

In the area of O Coto an important change occurs: you leave Lugo Province and enter A Coruña. The official Way website places this provincial change before the descent toward O Leboreiro.

From here you will continue via small rural paths until reaching one of this day’s most characteristic villages.

Km 9 approx.

· O Leboreiro

O Leboreiro is the first great reference of the Way within A Coruña Province.

The locality preserves a curious cabazo, a small circular granary, and the Church of Santa María de Leboreiro, situated directly beside the Way.

The church preserves a notable tympanum with the representation of the Virgin and different corbels on the sides.

After leaving the village you will continue via rural tracks and will pass by a sector near the N-547 and an industrial area before returning to a more pleasant environment.

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· Furelos

The arrival at Furelos is marked by its medieval bridge, one of the most recognizable elements of the entire stage.

The bridge was constructed in the twelfth century over the Furelos River. It is made of granite and schist and presents four round arches.

After crossing it you will traverse the small locality and continue directly toward Melide.

Km 14.4

· Melide

Melide practically marks the halfway point of the day and is one of the main nuclei of the French Way in Galicia. Here also ends the stage that the official website proposes from Palas de Rei, with a distance of 14.6 km.

It is also one of the best-known places to try the traditional pulpo á feira, in addition to local sweets such as melindres.

If you decide to continue to Arzúa, you will leave the urban center and pass by Santa María de Melide, whose church is situated directly on the French Way.

You will then re-enter rural paths, passing beside small streams and areas of eucalyptus and vegetation.

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· Melide → Boente Section

From Melide begins a second part somewhat shorter, but also quite undulating.

The Way alternates dirt and stone paths, small roads, and asphalt tracks, with continuous climbs and descents. The official distance between Melide and Boente is 5.8 km.

During this sector you will cross several small watercourses before reaching A Peroxa and, shortly after, Boente.

Km 20 approx.

· Boente

Boente already belongs to the municipality of Arzúa.

Upon arriving you will find a four-spout fountain, a cruceiro, and the Church of Santiago de Boente, situated beside the Way.

After leaving the locality another descent begins, followed by a new climb. This alternation of elevation changes is constant during the stage’s final kilometers.

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· Castañeda

The Way continues toward Castañeda, a locality that already appears mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus with the name Castaniolla.

The Jacobean tradition relates this area to the old ovens used to prepare lime intended for the works of the Cathedral of Santiago. According to tradition recorded by the Arzúa Municipality, pilgrims transported limestone from the Triacastela area.

After Castañeda you will face new descents and climbs before reaching the Iso River valley.

Km 25.4

· Ribadiso

The arrival at Ribadiso is one of the most pleasant sections of the stage.

You will enter by crossing the Iso River via a bridge of medieval origin. Beside the river is preserved the old pilgrim hospital, currently rehabilitated as a shelter. There is documentation of its assistance activities at least since 1523.

The environment also counts with a recreational area and a river beach beside the Iso River.

Final Section

· Ribadiso → Arzúa

From Ribadiso about 3.2 km remain to Arzúa.

The Way again gains height during much of this section and progressively approaches the N-547. After overcoming several asphalt sections you will finally enter the urban nucleus of Arzúa.

After almost thirty kilometers, this last climb can become somewhat heavy, so it is wise to conserve strength for the finish.

Km 28.5

· Arzúa

The stage ends in Arzúa, one of the main localities of the French Way’s final kilometers.

The town maintains a strong connection with the Jacobean route and counts with numerous services for pilgrims. It is also especially known for Arzúa-Ulloa cheese, one of the most representative products of the area.

Among its heritage elements the Chapel of A Madalena stands out, belonging to the disappeared convent of Augustinians founded in the fourteenth century and currently used as a cultural space.

During the route

What to See

Church of Santa María de Leboreiro

The Church of Santa María is located directly on the Way at its passage through O Leboreiro.

The temple stands out for its tympanum with the image of the Virgin and for the corbels that decorate its sides.

Very close you will also find the characteristic cabazo of Leboreiro, a traditional circular construction that resembles a large covered basket.

Medieval Bridge of Furelos

The Bridge of Furelos is one of the stage’s great monuments.

It was constructed in the twelfth century over the Furelos River and is formed by four arches. Its position directly on the Way makes it the traditional entry toward Melide.

Church of Santa María de Melide

The Church of Santa María is found shortly after leaving Melide’s center.

It is situated directly on the Way and forms part of the locality’s religious heritage.

Church of Santiago de Boente

The Church of Santiago is located in Boente de Arriba and forms a direct part of the French Way.

Together with the fountain and the cruceiro, it constitutes the main heritage reference of this small locality before continuing toward Castañeda.

Bridge and Old Hospital of Ribadiso

The Ribadiso complex is located beside the Iso River.

The bridge of medieval origin provides access to an old pilgrim hospital currently rehabilitated as a shelter. The hospital’s existence is documented at least since the sixteenth century.

Chapel of A Madalena

The Chapel of A Madalena is located in Arzúa and belonged to an old convent of Augustinians founded in the fourteenth century.

It currently functions as a cultural space and preserves inside two tombs with reclining figures.

Towns of the stage

Localities

Route map

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Stage 30

Portomarín ❯ Palas de Rei

Stage 32

Arzúa ❯ O Pedrouzo

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