Portomarín
❯ Palas de Rei
24,7km
STAGE DISTANCE
Stage 30 · French way
Information
The stage between Portomarín and Palas de Rei has an approximate distance of 25 km. The official website of the Way of Santiago in Galicia establishes 25.1 km and about 5 hours and 55 minutes, while Gronze measures 24.8 km. To maintain the kilometer points of the itinerary we will use this latter reference.
It is a day of medium difficulty, with 519 meters of ascent and 353 meters of descent. You will not find major passes, but rather numerous climbs. The first half is the most ascending, going from about 350 meters to the 725 meters of the Sierra de Ligonde.
The route again shows rural Galicia, alternating dirt tracks, small forests, local roads, and villages such as Gonzar, Castromaior, Hospital da Cruz, Ventas de Narón, Ligonde, Airexe, and Lestedo before arriving at Palas de Rei.
Recommendation from The Way
Recommendation in stage 30: Portomarín – Palas de Rei
Although the stage does not present great technical difficulties, the continuous elevation changes can make it more tiring than expected. The climb to the Sierra de Ligonde is progressive, so it is wise to maintain a comfortable pace during the first half.
You will also have to cross several roads. Pay special attention in the area of the LU-633 and Hospital da Cruz, where there are crossings with traffic.
If you do the Way by bicycle, much of the day is manageable, although you will encounter dirt tracks and some irregular sections.
For people with reduced mobility, it is not advisable to consider this stage completely easy. The ONCE Foundation classifies it with a physical difficulty of 4 out of 6 and notes that some elevation changes, rocky terrain, and crossings prevent traveling the entire route continuously in a wheelchair without assistance.
Stage profile
A stage of approximately 24.8–25.1 km, with 519 m of ascent and 353 m of descent. Most of the positive elevation is concentrated during the first half, until reaching the 725 meters of the Sierra de Ligonde.
Later the profile smooths and alternates small climbs and descents via Ligonde, Airexe, Portos, and Lestedo before the final descent toward Palas de Rei.
Itinerary
· Portomarín
The stage begins beside the Church of San Nicolao. From there you will descend via Rúa de Compostela and continue via the Avenida de Chantada until reaching the LU-633.
After crossing one of the reservoir’s arms by bridge, you will turn right and begin a climb via a pleasant path surrounded by oaks, chestnut trees, and pines.
Later you will meet the LU-633 again and continue via a sidewalk parallel to the road. You will pass beside Toxibó before continuing to climb toward Gonzar.
Km 7.9
· Gonzar
Gonzar is the day’s first important locality and also one of the first intermediate points where you will find services.
The Way crosses the village and continues via a dirt track climbing. Shortly after you will connect with a small local road that leads toward Castromaior.
Km 9.2
· Castromaior
Castromaior gives way to one of the most intense climbs of this first part.
Very close to the Way is the Castro de Castromaior, an important Iron Age settlement that was inhabited approximately between the fourth century B.C. and the first century A.D.
After overcoming the climb you will again continue beside the LU-633, although the Way separates from it again before reaching Hospital da Cruz.
Km 11.5
· Hospital da Cruz
The name Hospital da Cruz recalls the old tradition of welcoming pilgrims in this area.
At the exit you will use a bridge to overcome the road junction formed by the N-540 and N-640 roads. Then you will continue via a much quieter local road toward Ventas de Narón.
Km 13
· Ventas de Narón
From Ventas de Narón begins a progressive climb via a path parallel to a small road.
The route reaches the 725 meters of the Sierra de Ligonde, which separates the Miño basin from the A Ulloa region.
Once you have overcome the highest point you will begin to descend toward A Previsa and Os Lameiros.
·
· Os Lameiros · Chapel of San Marcos
Before reaching Ligonde you will pass through Os Lameiros, where is found the small Chapel of San Marcos surrounded by oaks.
Very close rises the well-known cruceiro of Lameiros, dated to the seventeenth century. Then you will continue straight ahead toward Ligonde.
Km 16.2
· Ligonde
Ligonde is one of the villages with the strongest Jacobean tradition in this stage. Its old hospital received King Charles I during the sixteenth century and later Philip II during their travels on the Way.
At the exit you will continue via a local road and then take a small shortcut until crossing the Airexe River.
From here begins a short climb toward the next population.
Km 17.1
· Airexe
At Airexe you will pass beside the Church of Santiago, situated to the left of the Way.
The route continues beside a local road and overcomes Mount Pallota before crossing the LU-P-3301.
Then you will begin a gentle descent toward Portos.
Km 19.2
· Portos
Portos is a small village already located within the municipality of Palas de Rei.
The Way continues practically straight ahead via a quiet local road to Lestedo.
About 200 meters from the exit there is an optional detour toward the Church of San Salvador de Vilar de Donas, situated about 2.3 km off the Way. The temple belonged to the Order of Santiago, so it is only worthwhile including it if you have time to make the detour.
Km 19.8
· Lestedo
Lestedo is another small locality very closely linked to the passage of pilgrims.
From here you will continue via the same local road, passing through Os Valos and later A Brea.
From this point you will begin to approach the N-547.
Km 21.9
· A Brea
From A Brea you will advance via a path located to the left of the N-547.
You will pass through O Rosario and then begin to descend via a path that again moves slightly away from the road.
Shortly before reaching Palas de Rei you will cross the recreational area of Os Chacotes.
Km 24.8
· Palas de Rei
The stage ends in Palas de Rei, one of the main nuclei of the French Way in this area of Lugo.
Upon entering you will pass beside the Church of San Tirso, whose origin dates to the last third of the twelfth century. From the original Romanesque building the main doorway and part of the facade are preserved.
From there you will continue via the Avenidas of Ourense and Compostela until reaching the town center.
What to See

Castro de Castromaior
The Castro de Castromaior is one of this stage’s most outstanding archaeological elements.
It is located very close to the Way and corresponds to an important fortified settlement of the Iron Age, inhabited approximately between the fourth century B.C. and the first century A.D.

Chapel of San Marcos
The small Chapel of San Marcos is found at Os Lameiros, surrounded by oaks and directly beside the Jacobean route.
It is one of the most recognizable religious elements in the section comprised between Ventas de Narón and Ligonde.

Cruceiro of Lameiros
Beside the chapel you will find the cruceiro of Lameiros, dated to the seventeenth century.
Its decoration presents different symbols related to the Passion of Christ and constitutes one of the most characteristic examples of folk art in this day.

Church of Santiago of Airexe
The Church of Santiago is located beside the Way at its passage through Airexe.
It is one of the religious references you will encounter after crossing Ligonde and before continuing toward Portos.

Church of San Tirso
The Church of San Tirso is one of Palas de Rei’s main monuments.
Its origin is Romanesque, from the last third of the twelfth century, although it has undergone numerous reforms. From the original construction the main doorway and part of the facade are still preserved.
Localities
Portomarín
Portomarín is the starting point of this stage. The Way leaves the locality from the area of the Church of San Nicolao and quickly begins to gain height toward Gonzar.
Gonzar
Gonzar belongs to the municipality of Portomarín and is found approximately eight kilometers from the start.
From here the Way continues climbing toward Castromaior and its important archaeological site.
Castromaior
Castromaior is a small village situated beside one of the most outstanding forts in this section of the Way.
After crossing it you will have to overcome one of the day’s main climbs before continuing toward Hospital da Cruz.
Hospital da Cruz
Hospital da Cruz is found after Castromaior and marks the passage toward the second part of the climb.
From here the Way overcomes the national roads and continues via a local road toward Ventas de Narón.
Ventas de Narón
Ventas de Narón appears just before reaching the Sierra de Ligonde.
From this small locality you will continue climbing to the 725 meters before beginning the descent toward A Previsa, Os Lameiros, and Ligonde.
Ligonde
Ligonde stands out for its long relationship with the Way and for the historical existence of a pilgrim hospital.
This establishment came to receive figures such as Charles I and Philip II during the sixteenth century.
Airexe
Airexe appears after crossing the river of the same name and making a small climb.
Its main reference within the Way is the Church of Santiago.
Lestedo
Lestedo already belongs to the municipality of Palas de Rei.
From here approximately five kilometers remain until the end of the day, passing through A Brea and O Rosario.
Palas de Rei
Palas de Rei is the end of this stage and one of the main rest points before continuing toward Melide and Arzúa.
The Church of San Tirso, of Romanesque origin, is one of its main heritage elements.
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