Sarria
❯ Portomarín
18,8km
STAGE DISTANCE
Stage 29 · French way
Information
The stage between Sarria and Portomarín has a distance of 22.2 km, an approximate duration of 5 hours, and a profile of continuous climbs and descents. It accumulates about 398 meters of ascent and 457 meters of descent, but the elevation changes are moderate and you will not find any especially long climbs.
During the day you will walk through one of rural Galicia’s most characteristic landscapes, among oak groves, chestnut trees, meadows, corredoiras, and small villages. The route passes through Barbadelo, Rente, Peruscallo, Cortiñas, Morgade, Ferreiros, Mercadoiro, and Vilachá before descending toward the Miño River.
The stage’s ending is especially recognizable. After crossing the Belesar Reservoir, you will climb to the current Portomarín, built in an elevated area after the old town remained under the reservoir’s waters in 1963. Some of its most important monuments were moved stone by stone to the new nucleus.
Route map
Recommendation from The Way
Recommendation in stage 29: Sarria – Portomarín
Although it is not an especially difficult stage, small climbs follow one after another during practically the entire day. The best approach is to maintain a comfortable pace and not become overconfident because of the short distance, as constant changes in gradient can accumulate fatigue.
You will also encounter cobbled sections, dirt paths, and stone passages that can be slippery after rain. Pay special attention at the corredoiras and during the final descent toward Portomarín.
If you do the Way by bicycle, there is a marked variant after Ponte Áspera that passes through Zanfoga and has more asphalt. You will also find more comfortable alternatives for bicycles during the final descent toward the Miño.
For people with reduced mobility, much of the stage is practicable, but not the entire route can be continuously traveled in a wheelchair. The ONCE Foundation points out difficulties in some sectors due to steep grades, rocky terrain, and specific sections of the route.
Stage profile
A stage of 22.2 km, with approximately 398 m of ascent and 457 m of descent. The profile is undulating and alternates small climbs with descents, without major passes or prolonged elevation changes.
The first important climb appears after leaving Sarria. From there you will advance through small villages and rural areas until beginning the definitive descent toward the Miño River and Portomarín.
Itinerary
· Sarria
The stage begins climbing the Rúa Maior of Sarria. You will pass beside the Church of San Salvador, circle around the old fortress area, and continue to the Convent of A Madanela.
From there begins a steep descent to Ponte Áspera, by which you will cross the Pequeno River. Shortly after you will reach the railroad tracks and begin the day’s most important climb.
The ascent crosses a pleasant environment of oaks and chestnut trees and passes through Paredes before reaching Vilei.
Km 3.6
· Vilei (Barbadelo)
In Vilei you will continue climbing via the same route.
About a hundred meters from the Way stands the Church of Santiago de Barbadelo, one of this day’s main monuments. It is a Romanesque temple situated directly in Barbadelo’s Jacobean environment.
Shortly after you will pass through O Mosteiro and continue via an asphalt track surrounded by chestnut trees until Rente.
Km 5.2
· Rente
From Rente you will continue via the same track until reaching A Serra, also known as Mercado da Serra.
After crossing the LU-P-5709 road you will continue straight ahead toward the old mill of Marzán, situated approximately at km 7.3.
Here you will leave the main track to turn right onto a dirt path.
Intermediate Section
· A Pena → Peruscallo → Cortiñas
In this part of the stage you will find one of the Galician Way’s most characteristic landscapes.
You will pass through A Pena de Belante and then through Peruscallo, where the route crosses a beautiful section with stone slabs placed in the center of the path.
The route continues among chestnut and oak trees until reaching Cortiñas.
Km 10.1
· Cortiñas
From Cortiñas you will continue practically without changing direction via rural paths.
You will pass through A Brea and reach Morgade, where one of the most marked climbs of the second half of the day appears. From this area you will also begin to see the Loio valley.
Km 11.9
· Morgade
Morgade is a small locality situated directly in the Jacobean route.
From here you will continue climbing for approximately one kilometer until reaching Ferreiros. The environment continues combining meadows, small forests, and rural nuclei.
Important: the well-known 100-kilometer marker is not currently located in Morgade. Following a new measurement of the Way it was moved further ahead, to A Pena de Paradela.
Km 12.9
· Ferreiros
Ferreiros marks approximately the entry into the stage’s second half.
From here you will begin to descend toward Mirallos, where is found the Church of Santa María de Ferreiros, situated directly on the Way of Santiago.
You will then continue toward A Pena.
Km 14
· A Pena · 100-Kilometer Marker
At A Pena de Paradela is currently located the marker signaling the 100 kilometers remaining to Santiago according to the measurement used in the Way’s current signage.
It is one of the most photographed points of this stage and an especially symbolic reference for those who have begun their Way in Sarria.
From here you will continue via O Couto and As Rozas, alternating paths close to the road with tracks among meadows and wooded areas.
Km 16.9
· Mercadoiro
At Mercadoiro you will begin progressively approaching the Miño valley.
The Way continues via a dirt track and later begins a new descent to A Parrocha. From there you will take another marked path toward Vilachá.
Km 19.8
· Vilachá
Vilachá is the last small locality before Portomarín.
From here begins the definitive descent toward the Miño River. There are several marked alternatives: the historic route uses a cobbled path with some carved steps, while other options with greater asphalt presence are more suitable for bicycles.
During the descent you will begin to see the Belesar Reservoir and, on the other side, the current town of Portomarín.
Final Section
· Belesar Reservoir
The Way crosses the Miño River over the Belesar Reservoir via a long bridge. Construction of the reservoir caused the old medieval locality of Portomarín to remain submerged during the 1960s.
Once you have crossed the bridge you will find the well-known steps at the entrance to Portomarín. These ascend beneath an arch from the old bridge and beside the Chapel of the Snows.
Then you will continue via Rúa do Peregrino until reaching the center.
Km 22.2
· Portomarín
The stage ends in Portomarín, one of the best-known localities of the French Way’s final kilometers.
The old town disappeared under the waters of the Belesar Reservoir in 1963. Before flooding it, some of its most important buildings were moved to the new location, including the Church of San Nicolao, reconstructed stone by stone.
The temple, originally constructed in the twelfth century, has a very particular appearance because it combines the functions of church and fortress.
What to See
Ponte Áspera
Ponte Áspera marks the departure from Sarria toward Barbadelo.
After leaving the historic center you will descend to this bridge to cross the Pequeno River and continue toward the forests surrounding Paredes and Barbadelo.
Church of Santiago de Barbadelo
The Church of Santiago de Barbadelo is one of this stage’s main Romanesque monuments.
It is located very close to the Way and formed part of an old monastic ensemble. Its Romanesque architecture and close connection with the Jacobean route make it one of the day’s most interesting visits.
Church of Santa María de Ferreiros
The Church of Santa María de Ferreiros is located in Mirallos, within the parish of Ferreiros.
The temple is situated directly on the Way of Santiago and constitutes one of the main heritage references before continuing toward A Pena.
100-Kilometer Marker
The 100-kilometer marker is currently located at A Pena, in the municipality of Paradela.
Its position has changed with respect to earlier signage due to a new measurement of the route, so some older guides still place it in Morgade.
Church of San Nicolao of Portomarín
The Church of San Nicolao is Portomarín’s great monument.
It is a Romanesque temple from the twelfth century that belonged to the Order of the Knights Hospitaller and presents a very recognizable fortified appearance. When the reservoir was constructed, the church was dismantled and moved to the new town.
Old Portomarín and Belesar Reservoir
The construction of the Belesar Reservoir caused the disappearance of the old medieval town under the waters.
When the reservoir level drops sufficiently, remains of the old buildings and the town’s former layout can come to light.
Localities
Sarria
Sarria is the starting point of this stage and one of the French Way’s main nuclei in Galicia.
The Way leaves its historic center via the Convent of A Madanela area and continues toward Ponte Áspera before beginning the climb to Barbadelo.
Vilei and Barbadelo
Vilei belongs to Barbadelo’s surroundings and is found after the main initial climb.
The Church of Santiago de Barbadelo is its great heritage reference and one of the most outstanding Romanesque temples in this section.
Rente
Rente is a small village situated between Barbadelo and A Serra.
The Way crosses the nucleus via an asphalt track before continuing toward the mill of Marzán and Paradela’s rural paths.
Morgade
Morgade appears approximately halfway through the stage and precedes one of the route’s small climbs.
From here the Way ascends toward Ferreiros before again beginning to lose height.
Ferreiros
Ferreiros belongs to the municipality of Paradela and maintains a clear connection with the Way.
Very nearby, in Mirallos, is found the Church of Santa María de Ferreiros.
Mercadoiro
Mercadoiro is one of the last small nuclei before the descent toward the Miño.
From here the Way continues via dirt tracks toward A Parrocha and later Vilachá.
Vilachá
Vilachá is the last locality before reaching Portomarín.
At its exit begins the descent toward the Belesar Reservoir, with several marked alternatives depending on the type of route you prefer to travel
Portomarín
Portomarín is the end of this stage and one of the French Way’s most singular populations.
The current town was built in an elevated area after the construction of the Belesar Reservoir. The Church of San Nicolao, moved from the old town, is its most representative monument.
Route map
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