Astorga
❯ Foncebadón
25,8km
STAGE DISTANCE
Stage 23 · French way
Information
The stage between Astorga and Foncebadón has a distance of 25.8 km, an approximate duration of 5 hours and 45 minutes, and about 576 meters of ascent. The difficulty increases with respect to previous days, especially during the final kilometers, when you will begin to climb toward the Mountains of León.
During the first half you will cross some of the most characteristic villages of La Maragatería: Murias de Rechivaldo, Santa Catalina de Somoza, and El Ganso. Gradually you will leave behind the open terrain of the surroundings of Astorga to enter a landscape with more vegetation and greater presence of mountains.
The most important change arrives at Rabanal del Camino, situated at km 20.2. From here begin the final 5.6 km of climbing to Foncebadón, via tracks and paths that advance near the LE-142 road.
Foncebadón is located on the slopes of Monte Irago and for centuries was an important point for those crossing these mountains on their way to Bierzo. Currently, despite its small size, it has recovered activity thanks to the passage of pilgrims.
Route map
Recommendation from The Way
Recommendation in stage 23: Astorga – Foncebadón
Although the climb is gradual during much of the day, the final kilometers from Rabanal del Camino are more demanding. The surface alternates tracks and paths, so you will find areas of loose stone and irregular terrain.
You should also pay special attention to the weather. From Rabanal onward the altitude increases considerably and, during winter, snow, intense cold, or fog can appear, complicating the route to Foncebadón.
If you do the Way by bicycle, the elevation gain is manageable, but some paths can be uncomfortable due to the surface. Before reaching Rabanal there is a small section where the route guide itself recommends cyclists continue via road instead of taking the path.
For people with reduced mobility, it is especially important to take into account the irregular surface and the final climb from Rabanal. The stage does not present large continuous gradients, but the terrain is more demanding than in previous days.
Stage profile
A stage of 25.8 km, with approximately 576 m of ascent and 16 m of descent. The profile is clearly ascending: Astorga is located in the lowest area and Foncebadón marks entry into the mountainous part of the French Way.
The route passes through Murias de Rechivaldo, Santa Catalina de Somoza, El Ganso, and Rabanal del Camino before tackling the final climb to Foncebadón.
Itinerary
· Astorga
The stage begins in Astorga’s center. From Plaza de España you will continue toward the area of Gaudí’s Episcopal Palace and the Cathedral of Santa María, then take Calle Leopoldo Panero, Puerta Obispo, and San Pedro.
Already on the outskirts you will cross the N-VI and continue via Calle de los Mártires. Shortly after you will pass beside the Hermitage of Ecce Homo, situated opposite the small nucleus of Valdeviejas.
The Way continues via the LE-142 road, crosses the A-6 highway and the Jerga River before arriving at Murias de Rechivaldo.
Km 4.7
· Murias de Rechivaldo
Murias de Rechivaldo is the first village of the day and allows you to begin appreciating the characteristic architecture of La Maragatería. Its parish church is dedicated to San Esteban and dates from the eighteenth century.
At the entrance you will find an alternative to visit Castrillo de los Polvazares. This detour adds just under one kilometer and rejoins the Way before Santa Catalina de Somoza. Castrillo is declared a Historic Ensemble and preserves numerous houses of former muledrivers.
If you continue via the main route, you will leave Murias via a track with gentle climb. After crossing the LE-142, you will continue practically straight until Santa Catalina de Somoza.
Km 9.2
· Santa Catalina de Somoza
Santa Catalina de Somoza is another small locality closely linked to the Maragata tradition. In the past it had a hospital for pilgrims known as Hospital de Abajo, although no remains of the building are preserved.
Its parish church is dedicated to the Virgin of Candles and San Blas. Muledrivers and agriculture also had important presence among its residents.
You will cross the village and continue via a track that runs parallel to the local LE-6304 road for about four kilometers until reaching El Ganso.
Km 13.3
· El Ganso
El Ganso maintains the characteristic structure of the small villages on the Way in this area. Among its heritage elements is the Church of Santiago, situated beside the Jacobean route itself.
At the exit you will again continue via a path parallel to the road. The terrain begins to change and gradually a greater presence of trees and vegetation will appear.
Further on you will take the road in the direction of Rabanal del Camino. Shortly after you will return to a path and pass by the place where the well-known Oak of the Pilgrim was located, a centuries-old tree that was struck by lightning in 2013.
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· Hermitage of the Holy Christ of the True Cross
Before entering Rabanal you will pass beside the Hermitage of the Holy Christ of the True Cross, built in the eighteenth century. From here there is very little distance to the village.
The hermitage practically marks the access to Rabanal del Camino and from this point onward the landscape begins to acquire a clearly mountainous character.
Km 20.2
· Rabanal del Camino
Rabanal del Camino is one of the localities with the greatest Jacobean tradition in this area and the last important nucleus before the climb to Foncebadón. Its Calle Real concentrates much of its heritage.
Here you will see the Hermitage of San José and the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, a Romanesque temple built in the late twelfth century and later reformed.
Rabanal has lodgings and services for pilgrims, so it is also a common alternative to end the stage if you prefer a somewhat shorter day.
Final Section
· Rabanal del Camino → Foncebadón
From Rabanal 5.6 km remain to Foncebadón. You will leave via Calle Real and begin a constant climb via tracks and paths near the LE-142.
During the ascent you will cross the road on two occasions. As you gain altitude, the holm oak forests of the lower zones give way to oak forests and a much more mountainous landscape.
This is the section requiring the most effort, but also one of the most attractive of the day. Shortly before arriving you will meet the LE-142 again and enter Foncebadón via Calle Real.
Km 25.8
· Foncebadón
The stage ends in Foncebadón, a small locality situated on the slopes of Monte Irago. Its position made this place an important crossing point toward Bierzo for centuries.
The village came to be practically depopulated, but the growth of the Way of Santiago has favored the recovery of lodgings and services for pilgrims.
From here, in the next stage, you will continue climbing toward one of the best-known places of the entire French Way: the Cross of Iron.
What to See
Hermitage of Ecce Homo
The Hermitage of Ecce Homo is located shortly after leaving Astorga, beside the Way and opposite Valdeviejas.
The current building dates from the sixteenth century and was originally dedicated to San Pedro. At this place there was also a well traditionally used by pilgrims to supply themselves with water.
Church of San Esteban
The Church of San Esteban is located in Murias de Rechivaldo and is one of the examples of traditional religious architecture of La Maragatería.
The temple dates from the eighteenth century and features a characteristic bellgable, square head, and a portico preceded by a cross.
Church of the Virgin of Candles and San Blas
It is the parish church of Santa Catalina de Somoza.
It is dedicated to the Virgin of Candles and San Blas, patron to whom the locality maintains strong devotion and from whom a relic is preserved in the temple.
Church of Santiago
The Church of Santiago is located in El Ganso, directly related to the passage of the French Way through the village.
It is one of the religious elements that accompany the pilgrim during the journey through the small nuclei of La Maragatería.
Hermitage of the Holy Christ of the True Cross
The hermitage is located just before entering Rabanal del Camino.
It was built in the eighteenth century and constitutes one of the points announcing the arrival at this important Jacobean locality.
Church of Our Lady of the Assumption
The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption is one of the main monuments of Rabanal del Camino.
It was built in the late twelfth century in Romanesque style and later reformed. It features a single nave covered with barrel vault and for centuries was closely related to the Way.
Hermitage of San José
It is also located on Calle Real of Rabanal del Camino.
It was founded in 1733 by muleddriver José Calvo Cabrera and is considered one of the examples of Baroque in the Astorga region.
Localities
Astorga
Astorga is the starting point of this day and one of the main historic nuclei of the French Way.
From its historic center you will begin abandoning the city in the direction of La Maragatería, passing beside the cathedral, the Episcopal Palace, and the Hermitage of Ecce Homo before continuing toward Murias de Rechivaldo.
Murias de Rechivaldo
Murias de Rechivaldo is located directly on the Way of Santiago and preserves numerous features of Maragata architecture.
Its main monument is the Church of San Esteban, from the eighteenth century. From here you can also make the small optional detour toward Castrillo de los Polvazares.
Santa Catalina de Somoza
Santa Catalina de Somoza is a small population of La Maragatería traditionally related to agriculture, muledrivers, and the reception of pilgrims.
In the past it had the Hospital de Abajo and its parish church is dedicated to the Virgin of Candles and San Blas.
El Ganso
El Ganso is a small locality situated between Santa Catalina de Somoza and Rabanal del Camino.
The Way crosses the nucleus and continues from here toward the first foothills of the Mountains of León. Among its heritage references is the Church of Santiago.
Rabanal del Camino
Rabanal del Camino is one of the most representative villages of La Maragatería and maintains an important Jacobean and muleddriver tradition.
The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, the Hermitage of San José, and the Hermitage of the Holy Christ of the True Cross form part of its main heritage elements. From here begins the final climb to Foncebadón.
Foncebadón
Foncebadón is located on the slopes of Monte Irago and marks the end of this stage.
Its location made the locality an important crossing point between La Maragatería and Bierzo. Today it has activity again thanks to the Way of Santiago and has different lodgings for pilgrims.
Route map
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